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  • Mark & Tracy

DIY Farmhouse Table

We always talked about the big, old fashioned harvest table we were going to have in the dining room. As the finishing touches on the house came together it really began to show it's own unique style - industrial meets rustic. We realized that the traditional harvest table we had always imagined would not be the right style so we started looking on-line. We found a lot that we liked but wouldn't be the right style, a few "almost - but not quite rights", and a lot of "definitely nots". It didn't take long before Mark's creativity was sparked and he started thinking about making one. We pulled ideas from things we had seen that we liked, he drew a few different designs, and the next thing I knew we were headed to Menard's for building materials. One thing worth noting is that the tiles of the floor in Menard's are 12 inches. We laid out pieces of pipe and fittings in the aisles to determine shape and scale. Other than some fine tuning he did on the flanges to make them more level, this is a pretty do-able DIY project. It doesn't require any out of the ordinary tools, but it definitely requires 2 sets of hands for lifting and turning the partially finished pieces. They are HEAVY! The finished product cost about $750. It wasn't an inexpensive project, but it was more affordable than anything that we found that was comparable quality and size.

The table got it's first use at our family Christmas celebrations. We comfortably fit 8 for dinner and 10 for games. Like our countertops, the butcher block is durable and forgiving. A few scuffs and stains give it character and anything too dramatic can be sanded out. I prepared it with 6 coats of butcher block oil, followed by 2 of butcher block conditioner with wax to seal the surface. I clean it with Truce Safe & Simple Wood Cleaner from Thrive Market. It has vinegar and essential oils to clean and disinfect, and olive oil to keep the wood conditioned. It's going to age beautifully and will last for generations.

When we posted photos on FB a lot of people requested more info so Mark compiled a materials list and some basic information. He's happy to answer questions if you're going to make one of your own and need clarification on anything.


TABLE 72 x 36 x 30 tall” 12-10-2018

Qty Description Location

1 - 36 x 72” x 1 ½” Butcher Block

4 - 1 ¼ x 4” NPT Pipe Nipple (Lower Vertical Legs )

4 - 1 ¼ x 21 ½”” NPT Pipe Nipple (*See note - Upper Vertical Legs)

6 - 1 ¼” NPT Tee

1 - 1 ¼” x 48” Pipe Nipple (Horizontal Leg Braces)

4 - 1 ¼” x 12” Pipe Nipples (Cross Leg Braces)

8 - 1 ¼” NPT Floor Flanges (4 Upper, 4 Floor)

35 - ¼” x 1 ½” Lag bolts /washers

1 - 2 x 2 x 3/8 x 45 ” Aluminum angle (*see assembly note - back bone brace)

2 - ¼ x 4 x 34” Aluminum (*see assembly note - cross support braces)

2 - 6 x 8 felt pads (cut into 4” round coasters for bottom of flanges)

*NOTE: I used custom threaded 21 ½” legs yielding a table that is a standard 30” tall. Custom length pipe is not a big deal, most hardware stores will build you whatever length pipe you want, at a minimal cost.

LONG BENCHES (Makes TWO 72 x 12 ½” x 18 tall” benches)

1 - 25” x 96” 1 ½” Butcher Block cut into Qty 2 12 ½” x 72”– Menard’s

2 - 12 ½” x 24” remnants (could be used for end benches)

10 - 1 x 12” Pipe Nipples (Upper Vertical Legs)

10 - 1 x 3” Pipe Nipples (Lower Vertical Legs)

8 - 1 x 2” NPT Nipples (Cross Leg Braces)

4 - 1” x 29” NPT Pipe Nipples *(See Note - Horizontal Leg Brace)

12 - 1” NPT Tee

2 - 1” NPT Cross NPT Fitting (*See Note)

20 - 1” NPT Floor Flanges (10 Upper, 10 Floor)

48 - ¼” x 1 ½” Lag Bolts / washers

6 - ¼” x 4” x 12” Aluminum (see assembly note - Cross support braces)

5 - 6 x 8 felt pads – Amazon - cut to flange diameter (10 coaster pads)

*NOTE: I used custom cut and threaded 29” pipe to get the desired frame length.

*NOTE: A 1” NPT Cross Fitting is evidently not a common pipe fitting to be stocked in stores, but the local hardware store will order them in for you.

OPTIONAL END BENCHES ((Makes TWO 18” x 12 ½” x 18 tall” single seat benches)

2 - 12 ½” x 24 Butcher block remnants (cut to 18”)

8 - 1 x 12” Pipe Nipples (Upper Vertical Legs)

2 - 1 x 12” Pipe Nipples (Horizontal Leg Braces)

8 - 1 x 3” Pipe Nipples (Lower Vertical Legs)

8 - 1 x 2” NPT Nipples (Cross Leg Braces)

12 - 1” NPT Tee

16 - 1” NPT Floor Flanges (8 Upper, 8 Floor)

4 - ¼” x 4” x 12” Aluminum (see assembly note - Cross support)

32 - ¼” x 1 ½”” Lag bolts / washers


  1. 1 On your upper vertical pipes install them hand tight. This will allow you to adjust the pipes to the same measured length as you tighten them. The longitude and latitude braces can be tightened up. Use a spot of anti-seize on all your pipe joints.

  2. The factory flange base quality is quite poor. Take time to sort through and find ones with the thread perpendicular to the flat bottom of the base. Thread the base on to a small section of pipe and roll it between your hands and see how bad it wobbles. The flatter the better. I just grabbed the first ones off the shelf and I ended up having to turn the bottom surface on my metal lathe to insure them mating flat to the floor and the underside of the table. (nearby friends and family: I will turn them for you if you like)

  3. I used metal for the underside structural bracing but that’s just because I had it available and wanted to incorporate a machinist essence to the project. Gluing and screwing wood bracing would be perfectly fine and would be considerably cheaper than the aluminum braces I used. Note Adjust lag bolt length according to thickness of wood bracing.

  4. Use 11/64 Drill to for all lag bolt holes to thread into (use a stop to control depth and not break through table or bench top).

  5. Watch Menard’s sales for Butcher Block Slabs and 11% rebates. It will considerably reduce your overall project cost.

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